This article is designed to compare the use of the
Panasonic Micro 4/3rds digital GF1 camera with the new 'emerging' G3
digital camera. I am using it to collate information in relation to the
G3 reviews, I am reading.
I have used the Panasonic GF1 MFT digital camera
for the last 18 months. It is a substantial camera and with only a
single 'major' flaw and that is the external viewfinder which has very
poor viewing capability.
Putting the 'Micro' back into Micro 4/3rds
The G3 has put the 'micro' back into micro 4/3rds and delivers a very
small 'similar shape' and style to a DSLR. I always felt that the G, GH
cameras were too near the size of the existing APS-C sensor DSLRs to be
deemed a 'micro solution' with interchangeable lenses. The GH2 seems to
be going 'head to head' with a Canon 60D and there is not a lot of
difference in cost between them.
This G3 is very compact, especially with the 20mm and 14-45mm lenses and
although it is not pocketable, neither was the GF1 with an external
viewfinder fitted. In fact this new G3 is smaller than the GF1+EVF in
length, height and only slightly deeper (thicker). Sure, I would have
preferred a 'flatter top' like the GF1 but even with the little 'hump' it
is a great deal neater than the GF1 with it's viewfinder clipped on. It remains to be seen
but I am confident that it will be just as pleasant to hold and use as
the GF1.
I have been waiting for
the release of the G3 camera and this morning
at 8am 12th May 2011, UK time, it was announced. It's retail price as
listed is £549 for the body only.
The size seems to be about
right, somewhere in-between my GF1 and a GH2 which suits me. The body is
4.54" in width, 3.29" in height and 1.84" in depth.
The 'body only' weight is ideal
at 335.6g. I want this camera to be an improvement on my GF1 with an
improved sensor and most importantly, an internal 100% viewfinder.
I am not into 'touch technology' so for me the basic controls
really have to tick the boxes. The new G3 has similar 'switch' controls
to my GF1 and this new MFT camera definitely hits the spot!
These are my
GF1 Controls
-
A - Aperture Priority (top wheel)
Aperture setting control (rear thumb
wheel)
Exposure compensation
(rear thumb wheel)
AF/MF Focus Mode Button + LCD menu
setting (AFS/AFC/MF)
White Balance Button on rear SET array +
LCD menu setting
AF Mode
Button on rear SET array + LCD menu setting (face, tracking, multiple, centre point
+ pinpoint)
Exposure metering Fn button on rear SET array + LCD menu setting (multiple, centre weighted, spot)
ISO Button on rear SET array + LCD menu
setting
AE lock button on rear (toggle/locking exposure)
Single shot mode (top micro switch)
Burst shot mode (top micro switch)
Self Timer (top micro switch)
Image Exposure Bracketing (top micro switch)
Focus Lock - (half shutter button)
Grid
lines in the viewfinder
Blinking highlights on LCD display at time of capture and with
Playback button
GF1/G3 - Control Comparisons
So what do I have on this G3 that matches up to my GF1.............I have outlined
the matches in normal BOLD text in the
above GF1 controls section.
The rest of my controls (in italics above) have been moved but they are not bad solutions -
The
single shot/burst shots/timer/exposure bracketing have all been
moved to the SET array buttons onto the bottom button and then LCD
menu selected (very acceptable)
The
AE (exposure lock) toggle button can be assigned to the Fn1 rear
button (nice position halfway up the camera on the right)
The
AF/MF button
can be assigned to the
Fn2 rear button + LCD menu setting (nice position at the bottom)
The
exposure metering button,
I can live with this being menu driven, I use 'multiple' for
virtually 99% of my shots.
The G3 also retains
the C1 and C2 'programmable' controls on the top dial. These are
excellent for setting up my 'preferred settings' and follow the same
controls as my GF1.
The G3
looks very promising, it has a 100% built in viewfinder..........now
that's the 'MAJOR' improvement over my GF1. I can live with ISO:160 as a
starting point and I am not much into video but from what I have read,
it is an improvement on my GF1 and it's video suits my purposes.
I am still reading the review and the preview data but it all looks
good. I might eventually get into this 'touch screen' technology but I
still think that the controls I have outlined are still the best way to
achieve 'optimum' performance out of the G3.
My GF1 is for 'casual use' and the G3 offers excellent improvements in a
similar size...........I like the 'swivel' screen, now I can hold the camera over the top of
people and fences to grab the shot, it's a nice addition, especially
for low 'near the ground' shots and video. I guess this is also where
the 'touch screen' technology would come into its own, as I could simply
touch a part of the screen to focus on a given point without having to
re-adjust the scene?
Call me optimistic, but in reality this camera should produce images
that are a 'step up' above the GF1 for ISO performance but even if it
matches the GF1, it will do for me!
The following are videos of the Panasonic G3 Camera -
Panasonic G3 V Canon 60D - Image Quality
I checked the G3 against the Canon 60D at
Imaging-Resourcefor
ISO:1600/3200 and the G3 is seriously impressive for limited noise
versus image quality at those ISO ratings. Its rendering in the darker
areas at ISO:1600 is excellent...............it more than
holds it's own against the larger APS-C sensor camera and to my eyes,
the G3 has slightly better resolution. However, the G3 colours in the
jpegs are not 100% accurate but then neither was the colours of the GF1. At ISO:160 the G3 again stands up very well
against the 60D at ISO:100 and this is an area that I thought it would
prove substandard. The 'test jpeg image' material textures are very
clear, the dynamic range matches the 60D, the image quality is excellent
and these are jpegs straight out of the camera............not
Panasonic's strong point!
With my GF1, I was always limited to around ISO:800 in low light
conditions, especially shooting under street lights at night. This G3 is
well above the GF1 for 'Noise v IQ' at ISO:1600 and it looks like
ISO:3200 is realistic, with minimum noise reduction, for night shots.
I have used Imaging-Resource as my barometer for image
tests for the last 5 years and it has been accurate for every camera
that I have purchased.
Most test images, including those from
Imaging-Resource are shot as jpeg files straight out of the camera but I
shoot 'RAW' files from my GF1 and I know that when I post process them
in Adobe Lightroom, I will achieve 'substantially' better final
images............I would expect the same from this new G3 camera.
The G3
Build + Direction
Judging from
my readings
on the Internet and the above video, the G3 build seems very good. The body is made of
aluminum with a glossy plastic coating. The lens mount is metal and so
is the tripod socket which is also lined up centrally with the lens. My
GF1 is an exceptionally well built camera, so I hope the G3, to some
degree, will measure up to it!
The G3 camera is smaller than the G2 and logically the numbers imply
that the G3 is a G2 upgrade. You can draw a similar assumption from the
GF2 which appears to be an upgrade from the GF1. Therein lies the
'conundrum' why make the G3 smaller? I believe that Panasonic are
re-drawing their market strategy.
I may be wrong, but the GH2 is definitely aimed against the likes of the
Canon 60D and in all probability the next GH generations will attempt to
'narrow and overtake any gap' with that level of DSLR. The G3 appears to
be there to compete 'head to head' with the existing and emerging APS-C
sensor 'mirrorless' interchangeable lens cameras. It is even in a
'strong' position to compete with the 'rumoured' small sensor
interchangeable lens cameras as the G3 has a larger sensor.
It just so happens that the G3 is also a nice upgrade route from the GF1
but I don't think this is intentional. Perhaps Panasonic will remain
content to aim for those sections of the marketplace, I have mentioned
above? The question has to be asked, will Panasonic develop a
professional digital camera around the micro 4/3rds technology and what
will it look like?
The G3 as a GF1 Upgrade Choice?
This is hard to forecast as Panasonic might still bring out a 'Pro'
upgrade version of the GF1?
For me I am comparing the G3 against my GF1 as a possible upgrade route.
Anyone who has used the GF1 will appreciate the 'blast' that the camera
brings to your photography. It is 'ergonomically' one of the best little
cameras I have ever used. It is compact, lightweight, well built and
fabulous to carry around in the cup of your hand all day! For 'street'
photography and with the LCD or external viewfinder fitted, it is fast to grab and lock exposure, fast
to half/press the shutter button to lock the centre (spot) focus on your
primary subject, re-adjust the scene and take the shot. This G3 will be
even faster because now the exposure can be locked using that
right/centre back Fn1 button (toggled on and off) which is a great deal
easier to access than the AE button on the GF1. Forget manual focus,
unless you are into legacy lenses, if the G3 matches the GF1 for
autofocus accuracy it will be awesome.................my GF1 can hammer
the likes of my Canon 5D and 450D DSLRs for centre (spot) focus
accuracy!
How small does it have to be...........I always felt that my GF1 was not
a 'true' compact camera. Truly compact means that it can slip 'very
easily' into a small pocket, even the top pocket of your jacket.
However, if you are seriously out to improve on your photography and
your images then a compact camera in your top pocket is not going to
'cut the mustard'. Sure you will think it is great fun for a while but
as usual the images with that 'very small' sensor and in those awkward
low light conditions just don't seem to deliver and gradually you slip
back to the DSLR and then back to the compact...........nightmare! The
GF1 eases the pain, it is not too small and not too large, for some it
is the only camera they will require as the larger 2x crop sensor
delivers excellent images but admittedly to get the 'absolute' you have
to shoot in 'RAW' files and tweak the best images for colour in
Lightroom or SilkyPix Software. Can you get fed up with
it...........never..........it is a 'cracking' single solution camera
system, especially with the compact Lumix lenses. For me, this is what
the G3 has to deliver and I think it can; it makes for a great
diversion from my DSLRs and film cameras and ideal for my 'casual' use
in social settings. I know that the image quality will not disappoint
me!
This G3 is going to be very neat with my Panasonic Lumix 20mm f1.7 and
14-45mm zoom lenses, not to mention the bonus of using that 100%
viewfinder with my Lumix 100-300mm zoom lens. I am still going to be
able to fit the lot into a small/medium size shoulder bag like the
Lowepro 140AW and the camera is small enough with any of those lenses
and lightweight enough to carry around all day with a 'wrist strap' for
backup.
There is no doubt that the G3 is designed 'primarily' as a G2 upgrade
and it lacks a few items, the main one is 'eye switching' between LCD
and viewfinder, the G3 uses a dedicated switch on the rear to left at
the top of the camera. This is not a problem for me as my GF1 has a tiny
switch built into it's clip on viewfinder. There is no microphone socket
on the G3 but again for me, I never required one on the GF1 as I rarely
use the video.
I like the viewfinder adjustment for your eyes and that
matches my external viewfinder on my GF1. A great deal is made of the
'touch screen' for selecting your focus point on the LCD scene but I
would use the viewfinder and even the LCD with 'half shutter' press/hold
to lock the centre point focus and then re-align the scene and press the
shutter button home. However, I will admit that in cases where I would
use the LCD at a higher or lower level with the swivel screen, touch
screen technology is a
nice touch, if you will pardon the pun.
The GF1 - Any Other Upgrade Choice?
I get so much pleasure out of the GF1, I sometimes wonder if it is worth
upgrading? There are no other upgrade routes for my GF1
at this time, I want a camera that is as compact but with a built in
100% viewfinder. It has to have at least a micro 4/3rds size sensor or
larger to provide me with decent image quality and interchangeable
lenses. I had the Fuji X100 with it's fixed lens and the Lecia M9 in my
hands, either of which I could afford but they just do not have the
'ergonomics' that I enjoy in the GF1. The only other camera, I would
even consider, is one I already have and that is a Nikon FM3a 'Film' SLR
with it's Nikon AI-s Lenses. I have looked at the Panasonic GH2 which is
a nice bit of kit and I am sorely tempted but the G3 is the right size
(for me).
G3 - Panasonic Lumix Lenses
The lenses that I use with my GF1 should provide the same usability with
the new G3. I spent a great deal of time researching these Panasonic AF
lenses and each one, on the GF1, has delivered the image quality
and performance that I expected.
The Lumix 14-45mm zoom OIS lens is very compact, lightweight and
provides me with an excellent 28mm to 90mm 'field of view'. This lens is
pocketable although I have never been one to put lenses in my jacket
pocket. It's image stabilisation is excellent and the autofocus with the
GF1 is flawless. This zoom has the 'optimum' focal range for most shots;
I have never required a 'wider' lens for my GF1..........28mm is more
than adequate for me!
The Lumix 100-300mm zoom OIS lens is lightweight and for diameter size
it matches most of the 300mm zoom lenses of a similar aperture setup,
including those from Canon and Nikon. However it is smaller in length
when it is retracted to 100mm and is easily carried in my hand with the
GF1 and can hardly been seen. I can carry it around (cupped in my hand)
all day without any problem. This lens is so understated, it is simply
'breathtaking' for AF centre (spot) point accuracy with the GF1 and is
easily used 'hand held' between 100mm - 300mm (200mm-600mm field of
view). The image stabilisation works a treat and I have long ago left
the monopod and tripod in the house. For wildlife, sports and small
birds, my 'shutter speed' in relation to the size of the subject in the
viewfinder and my shot technique has to be carefully applied to obtain
the best performance from this lens.
The Lumix 20mm f1.7 lens is simply 'awesome', how any manufacturer can
come up with a lens so spectacular and which costs a lot less than lenses
'near' its performance, is beyond me! For low light, night time shots or
just a 'one lens' solution with it's '40mm field of view' (the sweet
spot between 35mm-50mm) this lens delivers in spades. It is a pancake
lens, very compact, very lightweight and most definitely able to fit the
smallest pocket. I have used this lens (it has no image stabilisation)
at 1/10sec shutter speed, 'hand held' without any problem.
G3 - Exposure + Dynamic
Range
A great deal is made out of the 'dynamic
range' of the micro 4/3rds sensor. Many have claimed that it does not
measure up to the dynamic range of the APS-C DSLR cameras. I have used
the GF1 for 18 months and I have learned through experience, how to get
the 'optimum' dynamic range out of it. I expect the G3 to deliver the
same or better!
When I am using my GF1 camera for 'everyday' photography, I always use
the AE button 'exposure lock' when taking pictures and the G3 can also
have one, by programming the Fn1 button to 'toggle' exposure lock on and
off. This way, I can use the viewfinder or the LCD to balance the scene
lighting and then lock the exposure. I am usually very lazy and instead
of using the - + exposure adjustment, I just raise or lower the camera
to 'grab an exposure' that suits the balance and then I lock it with the
AE button. I can then re-align my scene to take the shot.
However, no matter how good the
photographer, the camera, the lens and the digital technology, there are
some scenes that just cannot be balanced..............where the foreground is
heavily shadowed and the skyline is excessively bright, the metering in
the camera just cannot deliver. With the best will in the world, even
using exposure adjustments the photographer will end up with an image
where the sky has lost part of its colour, is 'washed out' as he strives
to open up the shadows for some detail or the sky is correct but
the shadows are dark, without much detail and excessive noise has crept
in. Every digital camera suffers from this problem, even 'film' cameras.
Many photographers will take 3 'RAW' exposures (dark, normal, bright)
and blend them in HDR software to open up the dynamic range. Other
photographers will take their best shot and use Adobe Lightroom software
and attempt to recover the dark foreground or bring back the sky by
applying a 'software graduated filter' to the top of the image. Either
method can often produce an final image where the
viewer will immediately sense that there is a 'falseness' and this is usually
where the foreground appears unnatural to the eye. In the worse cases,
especially with HDR software, the entire image appears 'overcooked' and
it is obvious that it's structure has changed.
The 'best solution' is one that you can use, even if you are a
JPEG
shooter and
that is a 2 'stop' B+W
graduated filter screwed onto the front of your
lens. Now you can expose to the right, grab as much data in the image,
open up the foreground and retain the correct colour in the sky. I use
the following filter on the front of my 52mm Lumix 14-45mm zoom lens and
with a 46-52mm step up 'Tiffen' adapter on my Lumix 20mm f1.7 lens.
The B+W 52mm 0.6/4x (502) Graduated Neutral Density Filter has a
transition from clear to 2x neutral density. The neutral grey half of
this filter transmits 25% of the incoming light, so that it darkens the
respective portion of the subject by two f-stops without altering its
colours. For example; when the sky is too bright in relation to the
landscape, the filter ensures good detail rendition in the clouds and
prevents the sky from being 'washed out' by over-exposure. The 502
filter is supplied in a rotating mount, similar to that of a polariser,
so that the angle of transition can be altered to suit the subject.
In the UK you can get this filter from
WareHouse
Express a supplier I have used in the past
and has proved reliable.
G3 - Dynamic
Range - Grad Filter Assembly In
difficult and 'very uneven' light conditions,
I use a B+W '2 stop' grey graduated filter (assembly) with my 20mm AF lens on the GF1
to open up the dynamic range. My 20mm
takes a
Hoya 46mm UV filter screwed onto the front of the lens, a Tiffen 46-52mm step up adapter
screwed onto the front of the UV filter, a B+W 52mm
graduated filter screwed onto the front of the step up adapter and
finally a Hama 52mm 'rubber' hood screwed onto the front of the 52mm
grad filter. It seems very complex but it is not. The entire 'compact'
assembly from the adapter to the hood can be unscrewed 'intact' from the
UV filter, flattened and stored away very neatly. The UV filter is
'absolute' as it allows the lens with the grad assembly to retract on
power save or down and not jam. If it was not there and the 'grad
assembly' was screwed onto the front of the lens, then the step up
adapter would jam the 20mm lens retracting and have to be removed from
the lens. One tip I can pass on and that is to place a small piece of
white plastic tape on the very top of the grad filter outer rim and you
will always know where the top of the '2 stop' grey part of the filter
is positioned, it makes adjustment very simple. The grad is rotational
on the assembly so the grey section can be turned to any part of the
scene.
I also shoot bracketed shots and select the optimum one for best
exposure.
My 14-45mm lens takes the 52mm grad filter on it's own, screwed
into the front of the zoom lens and I don't use a grad filter with my
100-300mm lens.
Landscape Photography - Lee Grad and Other Filters with the G3 -
Swivel Screen
The Lee 75
Rangefinder Graduated 2 x Filter + Polariser Kit is an alternative
solution for using with the G3. It is great for landscape work and similar projects where
the camera is on a tripod - although I am not sure if the 46mm
adapter supplied with the 75 Kit is flat against the outer casing of the
20mm lens and will block the lens retraction, it may also require a UV
46mm filter fitted first? The Lee 75 system 'attachment bracket' can be
purchased in various mm sizes to match the filter thread of other
lenses.
The beauty of the Lee 75 system is that other Lee filters can be used
and slid into the holder and it is not fixed to a 2 stop grey graduated
filter set-up. The Lee site is well worth a visit for ideas.
The G3 swivel LCD screen will prove excellent for 'tripod' landscape
photography as it can be angled to suit and offers a great 'live view'
method of composing and adjusting the scene!
Lee - UK supplier link with images of the Lee 75 System -
Robert White
Quality
of G3 Images
I fully expect the G3 to match and better my GF1 images. When in jpeg mode,
the exposure lock and 2 stop grey graduated filter methods work very well but to achieve the maximum in
dynamic range
performance, I always shoot 'RAW' image files and post process them to
tiff or jpeg using SilkyPix or Adobe Lightroom 3 Software for
the best results. - Please see my
GF1 Diary for samples.
Swivel
LCD and AF 'Touch Screen' Tracking
This is a feature that I really like, the ability to hold the camera
with the swivel screen opened up and using the centre (spot) focus,
touch a given subject on the screen which the centre focus then focuses
on and even if the subject moves around the screen, the focus point
stays attached and follows it until I press the shutter button. I am
sure there are many more areas of the 'touch screen' technology that
will assist my photography but I guess to explore and realise the
limits, I will have to purchase the G3 camera?
G3
- Body Size - Comparison Images There are some great 'comparison' images of all the MFT cameras over at
this link -
PhotographyBlog
- I think the G3 matches the GF1+EVF very
well..............please scroll down their page!
G3 - UK Release Date
The G3 was released for sale in the UK on the 17th June 2011.
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graduated filter screwed onto the front of your
lens. Now you can expose to the right, grab as much data in the image,
open up the foreground and retain the correct colour in the sky. I use
the following filter on the front of my 52mm Lumix 14-45mm zoom lens and
with a 46-52mm step up 'Tiffen' adapter on my Lumix 20mm f1.7 lens.